In leathercraft, stitching is one of the most important steps in making durable and beautiful leather products. The way stitching holes are made in leather affects both the strength of the stitch and the appearance of the final product.

Different leather craftsmen use different hole styles depending on the tools, the type of leather, and the quality of the product they want to achieve.

In general, there are three common types of stitching holes used in leathercraft:

1. Round holes
2. Diamond cuts
3. Oblique (French) cuts

Each of these methods produces a different stitch look and is suited for different types of leather goods.

1. Round Holes

Round holes are created using a round punch or round stitching chisel. In this method, a small circular piece of leather is removed to create the hole.

Because leather is physically removed, the hole stays open even after stitching.

Characteristics of Round Holes

• Leather material is removed
• The hole remains visible after stitching
• Easier to stitch through
• Common in beginner leather projects

Round holes are often used for:

• Leather belts
• Straps
• Utility leather items
• DIY leather projects

This method is simple and practical, but the stitch line may look slightly larger compared to other techniques.

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2. Diamond Cut Stitching Holes

Diamond cuts are one of the most popular stitching hole styles used in traditional leathercraft.

They are created using diamond-shaped stitching chisels or pricking irons that make a small slit shaped like a diamond.

Unlike round holes, the leather is cut rather than removed, allowing the fibers to compress around the thread after stitching.

Characteristics of Diamond Cuts

• Leather is cut but not removed
• Produces the classic angled saddle stitch
• Strong and durable stitching
• Very common in handmade leather goods

Diamond stitching holes are widely used for:

• Handmade wallets
• Leather belts
• Notebook covers
• Small leather accessories

This style gives leather products the classic handmade leather look.

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3. Oblique or French Stitching Holes

Oblique holes, also known as French stitching holes, are used in high-end leather craftsmanship.

These holes are made using French pricking irons, which create a thin angled slit in the leather.

This technique produces a very clean and elegant stitch line, often seen in luxury leather goods.

Characteristics of French Cuts

• Leather is cut with a thin angled slit
• Produces a refined and elegant stitch pattern
• Common in luxury leather products
• Requires more skill and precision

French stitching holes are often used in:

• Luxury leather bags
• Premium wallets
• Watch straps
• Designer leather goods

The stitch line created using this technique looks very neat and professional.

Comparison of Leather Stitching Holes